The Azores: islands full of variety

We can’t see three metres in front of us. Moving at walking pace, I carefully steer our rental car up the winding road. Dense fog is our constant companion on this adventure. Hydrangeas adorn the waist-high walls that line the street, a bit like in Ireland. On this trip, many comparisons will be made with other destinations: at times it resembles the coastal landscape of Iceland, then the mountains of La Réunion or simply the Hawaii of Europe – the Azores cannot be pigeon-holed. But one thing they do have in common with all these countries is their volcanic origin. Nine islands of the archipelago are inhabited, scattered like small pearls in the Atlantic Ocean.

We, that is, Michèle, David, Jordan, Selina, Tamara, Noah and I, are on São Miguel, the main island. From here to the westernmost island of Flores it is a good 1.5 hours by plane. Around 240,000 people live in the Azores, more than half of whom are in São Miguel.

A paradise for hikers

We park at Lagoa do Canário, where our guide Francisco is waiting for us. The brisk wind blows the wet fog in our face and we are grateful for our Gore-Tex clothing. From here, a hike takes us along the crater rim towards Lomba do Vasco. There are numerous ‘Miradouros’, or vantage points, marked on the map, but the fog thwarts our plans and we are forced to change course. The hike leads through the forest, where the fog conjures up a mystical atmosphere. Francisco explains that the islands are located on three different tectonic plates. Two of the islands move two to three centimetres towards America each year. The conditions and the climate on the islands are also different. São Miguel, which is a similar size to the canton of Solothurn, even has various microclimates. The landscape is characterised by the large craters, known as ‘Caldeiras’. It’s an El Dorado for hiking enthusiasts. Today, however, there will be no hiking for the time being.

We make our way to the west coast, and lo and behold: no more fog. Occasionally, the clouds break and make the black beaches sparkle. Rugged lava rocks, spectacular formations such as the ‘Mosteiros’, warm springs right by the sea and the chance to enjoy fantastic sunsets make a visit to this region truly worthwhile. Surfers will find their happy place on the north coast, but even those of us who prefer to stick to the beach can enjoy the spectacle of the wild waves.

Variety guaranteed

The diversity of the islands is remarkable: Santa Maria, the oldest in geological terms, is situated next to São Miguel and is known for its Red Desert. Terceira, meanwhile, is home to pristine laurel forests and UNESCO World Heritage sites such as the colourful town of Angra do Heroísmo. On the long island of São Jorge, which like Terceira forms part of the central archipelago, massive ridges and steep cliffs characterise the landscape. By ferry you can reach the island of Pico in about an hour. There, at 2,351 metres, Portugal’s highest mountain and one of Europe’s tallest volcanoes rises out of the sea. The Ponta do Pico is a popular trekking destination. Vines flourish in the island's volcanic soil, which explains why Pico is also known for its wine production. Worth noting: from the humpback to the blue whale, many marine giants swim in the surrounding waters, meaning that – with a little luck – you might even catch a glimpse of them from land.

From Pico it is a short ferry ride to Faial. There, in the village of Horta, you will find what is probably the most famous meeting place for sailors in the Atlantic. Further west are Flores, the island of flowers, and Corvo, the smallest island of the Azores, which has just 500 inhabitants. From barren to lush, from bustling to secluded, each island has its own unique charm.

Francisco tells us that the Azores opened up air traffic to international airlines about ten years ago. Nevertheless, the destination seems untouched and is not overcrowded. You can sense that nature is looked after and that the focus is more on gentle tourism rather than on mass tourism. For example, on some islands there are only a few dozen rental cars and limited accommodation options. So it pays to plan ahead. If you fancy a little bit more excitement, you should pay a visit to the capital, Ponta Delgada. Beautifully paved squares with numerous shops, as well as a lively harbour promenade and the must-see botanical gardens are worth a visit.

Jungle and waterfall

The next day we start in the south of São Miguel. From the coastal village of Faial da Terra, we hope to hike to the Salto do Prego waterfall. After gaining a few metres in altitude, we have to take off some layers. Yesterday exposed to the wind, today we battle humid, subtropical forests. On the first hill is the abandoned picturesque village of Sanguinho with its white houses in the typical Azorean style. From there, the trail winds its way into the dense forest. The Azores are a birdwatching paradise. We are therefore somewhat amused that it is chickens and roosters that we keep on meeting in the forest. The highlight of this hike is definitely the waterfall, which invites us to take a refreshing swim after the sweaty hike.

The journey continues past idyllic pastures where black-and-white spotted cows graze. Francisco says that all the mammals, with the exception of one species of bat, were imported at some point, and most of the plants are not native here. Only in the east of the island is the forest closer to its original form, brimming with endemic flora and fauna. There you might even spot a priolo, the Azores bullfinch, which lives exclusively on São Miguel. After a short drive, again through fog and at altitude, we find ourselves on the north coast with good visibility. Distances on the island are manageable and, if you have a little more time, you can even explore São Miguel by public transport. Along the way you can take in the hydrangeas typical of the island. Incidentally, the colour of their blossoms is influenced by the soil on which they grow. Wild ginger-lilies can be found lining the steep roads, growing ‘like weeds’.

Ready for all temperatures

We still have energy in our legs and set off for a second hike in the late afternoon: from Salto da Farinha, a path leads to Poço Azul, a small lake hidden in a dense forest. The layer principle has long since proven an effective approach on the island. Weather reports are rarely reliable, so you might set off in waterproof trousers and find yourself having to change into shorts half an hour later – as is the case now.

The next day, we start at the Santana Agricultural Market: fresh vegetables, local specialities and much more. We stock up on supplies. Here and at other points during the trip, the locals greet us with great hospitality. After sampling a few delicacies, we leave the market and drive to the most famous hot springs on São Miguel: the Caldeira Velha is nestled in a forest that is reminiscent of the Jurassic Park film set. Metre-high ferns tower above us and confirm once again how diverse nature is here on the island.

We continue towards Lagoa do Fogo, where we hope to finally see a crater lake. But the fog does not let up. Slightly disappointed, we tuck into a picnic in the car park. But then Francisco suddenly asks us to follow him. A little incredulous and unable to see, we depart the car park on foot. And then the magic of the Azores unfolds: just a few metres away from us, the sky clears and reveals a stunning view of the crater lake. Delighted, we can't help but cheer. This wooded shoreline looks like Canada, I think to myself as I internally add another country to the ‘Looks Like’ list. We get trekking and make our way down to the lake. Once again, it’s time to remove a few layers and carefully apply some sun cream.

After several days in the great outdoors, we come to an interim conclusion: here, ‘bad weather’ is a matter of opinion. Time and again, due to the constant changes in the weather, the landscape is bathed in a beautiful light and yes, even the fog does its part in characterising the picturesque scenery. If you can be flexible, you will be rewarded with some stunning settings in a multifaceted natural environment. A unique island experience. We are thrilled.