Buying carabiners: everything you need to know

Carabiner components

All carabiners have the same structure: a rope basket, spine, snapper and nose, as well as a locking system or gate.

Rope basket: above the opening. During belaying, the rope runs through the rope basket.

Spine: the longest side of the carabiner, opposite the opening

Snapper: this allows the carabiner to be opened and re-closed.

Locking system/gate: depending on the model, this is designed to be screwed, pushed, pressed or a combination of these.

Nose: the snapper closes the carabiner via the nose.

The shape, thickness and usage of the individual components may vary from model to model. You’ll find information about this in the following article.

Carabiner strength

How many kilos can a carabiner handle? This depends on the model. The EN 12275 standard, which applies in the EU and Switzerland, defines a minimum breaking strength, i.e. the minimum weight that the carabiner has to withstand. This corresponds to 20 kN for a load borne lengthways (longitudinal load) and 7 kN for a load on the snapper and spine (transverse load). To put this into perspective, 1 kilonewton equals just under 102 kilos. This means that a climbing carabiner with a transverse load of 7 kN can hold at least 713 kilos. The exact specifications (which depend on the model) are lasered onto the carabiner.

If you fall, and the rope catches you, this leaves the carabiner, safety device and all other components carrying many times your own body weight. The exact figure depends, above all, on how far you fall, how much the rope extends by, how dynamic the entire belaying chain is and how loose the belaying person leaves the rope. As a rough guide:

• A gentle fall indoors or when lead climbing: 3 to 5 times your body weight

• A fall when lead climbing: 4 to 8 times your body weight

• A hard/short fall: 8 to 12 times your body weight

In reality, falls are usually around 4–6 kN, i.e. well below a carabiner’s minimum breaking strength. For safety’s sake, however, carabiners need to be able to withstand a lot more.

It is important to note that the breaking strength decreases sharply if the load is borne crosswise and/or when the carabiner is open – so you should always make sure that carabiners bear the load lengthwise. Loads that are buckled via an edge also reduce the breaking strength or damage the carabiner. In other words, you want your carabiner to have a high breaking strength when open. The higher this value, the more buffer you have. You can find these details on the carabiner itself, too.

Types of carabiners

There are roughly four different types of carabiners. They are each suitable for different types of activities.

Carabiner locks/gates

A carabiner can only hold the maximum load if it is fully locked. There are several ways to lock the carabiner. The following overview shows the most common:

Carabiner noses

A carabiner’s nose is located where the snapper closes against the rope basket. At first glance, the noses look quite similar: some are somewhat hook-shaped, others straight. Straight noses, known as clean noses, are best suited for climbing. These let you click in and out easily, and the carabiner locks automatically. With a hook-shaped nose, there is a risk that the rope will get stuck on it and the carabiner will not lock properly.

Carabiners with a wire-lock system often have a hook-shaped carabiner nose, but are very light. Newer models do not have hooks and still lock reliably. They are primarily popular for ice climbing or alpine tours, because hardly any ice adheres to them and, if it does, the wire bars can be cleared of ice easily and comparatively quickly.

Looking after carabiners properly

In and of themselves, carabiners require little maintenance. Indoor climbing, in particular, really doesn’t put them through their paces. It’s a different story outside, where they scratch over the rock and rub along stony edges. When climbing in coastal regions, especially, sand and salt are a problem for carabiners. Ideally, you would rinse them with warm water and, if necessary, mild detergent. Do not use aggressive chemicals, as these can weaken the material. Allow the carabiners to dry well afterwards.

Check carabiners regularly for signs of wear. If they have become deformed or got severely scratched, you should no longer use them for belaying. Firstly, they will no longer be able to hold the intended load and secondly, sharp-edged scratches can damage the rope. If this is not the case, they could still be used as material carabiners, but make sure you don’t accidentally use them for belaying.

In principle, using equipment for as long as possible and having it repaired if necessary is a sustainable approach. Be aware, however, that, in the worst-case scenario, safety equipment is the deciding factor between life and death. Personal protective equipment (PPE) is subject to different warranty and repair conditions. Carabiners, helmets and ropes are all classed as PPE. Take care of your climbing equipment, but also replace components if they are damaged.

Carabiners for via ferratas

On a via ferrata, you are connected to the permanently installed steel cable with a via ferrata set. The load borne by carabiners is quite different on via ferratas than when climbing, so you shouldn’t use regular climbing carabiners. Via ferrata sets have to meet different standards and contain special carabiners that can be easily and quickly attached and clicked out again. They also have an automatic locking mechanism, which makes them very safe. The carabiners are often rather heavy – but that’s not a problem, because they’re hanging on the steel wire anyway and you pull them along or push them in front of you. For your own safety, check the via ferrata set for wear and tear at regular intervals. If in doubt, ask a specialist whether it still meets the standards and requirements.

Tips for keeping things tidy when climbing

Colour-code your carabiners. For example, choose yellow carabiners for belaying and green carabiners for material – or whatever suits you best. This helps with keeping your harness tidy and increases safety, because you can easily find what you need.

When you go climbing with other people, your carabiners often end up all mixed up at the end of the day. Label or mark your carabiners so you can identify them. To do this, choose a place where the rope doesn’t pass through, avoiding the manufacturer’s markings. Use a paint pen or a waterproof pen to mark your carabiners and safety devices. You can also wrap a piece of electrical tape around part of the carabiner or, for example, punch small circles out of sticky film and mark your kit with them.