Jemand beim Bouldern in Korsika

Climbing

Bouldering on Corsica our top tips

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Autorenbild Pesche.
Pesche
Sales Consultant, Transa store Europaallee Zurich
© Fotos

Corsica’s diversity is particularly striking in the area around Punta Caldanu – a stunning coastal bouldering spot. The boulders feature truly unusual shapes, but that’s not the only reason to pay them a visit.

Even the short walk from the car park to the boulders makes the trip worth it: the granite formations have been whipped by the wind, weather and sea, leaving them with a rough texture. From a distance, the shapes look soft, but bizarre. When I touch them, though, I can feel their rough surface – which will ask plenty of our hands and fingertips.

Bouldering by the sea is an experience like none other. The steady background noise – the music of the sea, as it were – offers a kind of meditative support. The warm structures of the gneiss are simply perfect for bouldering. And, as I imagined, the holes, edges, slopes and crazy pinch holds quickly rub the skin off your fingers.

The boulders’ structure calls for a delicate technique with wild hooks, jumps and light footwork. There’s everything here, from a flat section to overhanging walls – compressed into eight blocks. For a boulderer, a truly enjoyable experience.

  • Zwei Personen mit Crashpads auf dem Rücken auf dem Weg zum bouldern.

    The access route to the boulders passes right along the sea.

    Photo © Jonas Jäggy
  • Zwei Personen beim Bouldern, eine ist am Klettern, die andere spottet.
    Photo © Jonas Jäggy
  • Ein Mann beim Bouldern, unter ihm liegen Crashpads.
    Photo © Jonas Jäggy
  • Fünf Personen an einem Feuer am Meer.
    Photo © Jonas Jäggy

And when your fingers are burning and you just can’t do any more, jumping into the inviting azure water is an unbeatable feeling. Or enjoying a home-brewed coffee – that’s a fantastic boost, too. We opt for coffee. We were a little overconfident: the sea is somewhat too cold. We dipped our big toes in and pulled them out immediately.

As evening falls we watch the glowing sun descend into the sea. Corsica – a stunningly beautiful, diverse island with all kinds of outdoor pursuits on offer. The exciting tours, friendly interactions with locals and the delicious food are things we won’t forget for a long time. We’ll certainly be back.

Equipment for bouldering

Go straight to the key tips.

Key tips for bouldering on Corsica

Place: the Punta Caldanu boulders are located right on the beach below Lumio. There are eight blocks, some of them up to seven metres tall. They are right by the sea and can be reached from Lumio station (on the railway line between L’Île Rousse and Calvi). You can enjoy a unique vista over the Corsican mountains and the Citadel of Calvi.

Routes: most routes are difficulty levels 4 to 6. There is also a 7B+ and a 7C problem, both of which are highly rewarding.

Experience profile: if you’re looking for sun, beaches, sea and climbing, all rolled into one, you’re in the right place. It’s also perfect for families.

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