Buying crampons: everything you need to know

Various materials

Crampons are usually made of steel or aluminium – or a combination of both. They differ primarily in weight and area of use.

Aluminium crampons

• Advantage: weigh only about 350 grams up to half a kilo

• Disadvantage: wear out faster, spikes become blunt or bent on contact with rock

• Use: easy glacier tours, ski touring, flat firn slopes

Steel crampons

• Advantage: very robust, good grip on bare ice and on steep terrain, safe in contact with rocks, durable

• Disadvantage: often more than twice as heavy as aluminium crampons (around 1 kg), more prone to rust

• Use: classic alpine touring, ice climbing

Hybrid crampons

• The front part is made of steel, the heel of aluminium.

• Advantage: combine optimised weight with high stability

• Use: alpine touring where weight needs to be saved, but rock contact is possible.

Which crampons are best for you mainly depends on your planned tour, as well as how much weight you can and want to carry. Rent the crampons if you only need them occasionally.

Various crampon bindings

Crampons differ mainly in the number of spikes and the way they are attached to the shoe.

Crampons with a strap binding (also called basket binding) are attached to the boots with a strap. Semi-automatic crampons are attached to the heel with a rocker lever, while fully automatic crampons are additionally attached at the front of the foot with a toe bail. The three different types of crampons are suitable for different activities:

Size and fit of crampons

Crampons can usually be easily adjusted for different shoe sizes, from around size 36 to 46 depending on the model. The connection between the toe and heel part, the bridge, can be lengthened or shortened.

Most crampons therefore fit feet and boots of an average size. One thing to look out for is that for semi- and fully automatic crampons you need compatible boots. These boots must be fully crampon-compliant or sometimes crampon-compliant under certain conditions. Also make sure that the fasteners are easy for you to use – even when wearing gloves.

Crampon points

Regardless of the brand, crampons usually have 10 or 12 points. 10-point crampons are primarily suitable for light alpine touring on compact snow, and for smaller feet – about shoe size 36 to 39. 12-point crampons are needed for demanding and steep ice tours.

For ice climbing there are particular crampons with special points. Their shape resembles an ice pick and they stick out horizontally in front. The serrated front points prevent slipping out of a foothold and therefore offer better grip.

Important features of crampons

Before buying, you should consider the following points.

• The type of crampon should suit the type of activities you are planning to do. Aluminium or hybrid crampons are sufficient for alpine tours in firn (last year’s compacted snow).

• For ice climbing or mixed climbing (rock and ice) you need serrated front points.

• The fastening should suit your boots. Strap bindings are suitable for almost all boots, while semi-automatic and automatic bindings require corresponding boots.

• Your crampon should definitely have anti-balling plates.

Taking care of crampons properly

Crampons are easy to care for. However, it is important to allow them to dry thoroughly after use to prevent rust from forming. After your tour, rinse them with warm water, remove dirt and leave them to dry completely at room temperature.

Also check the crampons regularly for damage: Are the straps intact? Are the screws tightened? Is the basket free of tears? Are the spikes still sharp enough or do they need to be sharpened?

Store them in a dry place, preferably in a protective bag.

Safety instructions for crampons

• The crampons must be correctly and firmly attached to the boots. In rock and ice they are subject to large amounts of force. Depending where it happens slipping can be fatal and depending on the route it might not be possible to correct the fastening on the way. If you are part of a group, don’t let yourself be pressured because others are ready. Take the time you need to fasten the crampons to your boots.

• The strap should not be too long. Either shorten it to the right size for your mountain boots/ski boots, tie the protruding strap or tuck it into your trouser gaiter.

• Choose the right crampons for your plans.

• Check the spikes regularly for wear. It’s best to do this after each tour so that you have time to either have the defect repaired or get a replacement before the next time.

• At first, it feels unfamiliar to walk with spikes on your feet. Take each step carefully to avoid tripping. If you’re in a rope team, make sure you don’t step on the rope. The sharp spikes could damage it.

Crampons FAQ