Outdoor climbing: what you need to know

The most obvious thing first: the walls, anchor points and surrounding area are controlled in a climbing gym. Outdoors, you have to assess the rock quality, the safety measures, the weather and the surroundings. For this reason, careful, forward-looking planning and the necessary knowledge are particularly important. Below, Transa’s Jan discusses the most important things to bear in mind when climbing outdoors.

Technique

When climbing outdoors, the footholds aren’t marked in different colours like those in the climbing gym. This takes some getting used to, which is why you should choose a lower level of difficulty when climbing on a rock face than in the gym – as a rule of thumb about one to two levels lower. Either way, it’s worth practising the most important things indoors before heading outdoors. Many climbing gyms offer courses for this.

Here’s what you should practice before climbing outdoors:

• Safe and secure toprope and lead climbing

• Fall training: this is particularly important outdoors, because the uneven wall structures mean falling differs significantly from indoor climbing. Incidentally, this also applies to the belayer, who often doesn’t have as comfortable and secure a footing as they do in the gym. There are routes and places outdoors where a fall should be avoided as far as possible – for example due to ledges or unfavourable terrain.

• Operating quickdraws

• Secure belaying and lowering

It’s also extremely important to consider how you will clean the route when you’ve finished. How will you thread the rope and lower yourselves – and are you secure at all times? Learn how to clean a climbing route in a course or with an experienced person and practice the procedures before you apply them on your own.

Planning

Choose a climbing area that matches your skills. When you start outdoor climbing, opt for a climbing park with short routes and easy levels of difficulty. In climbing guides or online you can find information on the area such as route length and the corresponding rope length and number of expresses required, rock type, and type and quality of safety measures. In addition, climbing guides show a graphical representation of the route known as a ‘topo’ (short for topology). You should also research the access route, which should be as short and easy as possible, so you have enough energy left for climbing.

The weather is also part of the planning. Outdoors, you are exposed to the weather and this can change quickly, especially in the mountains. During thunderstorms, you must leave the climbing wall and exposed rock areas immediately and find a safe place. Be sure to take this into account and don’t take any risks – even light rain makes the rocks slippery and climbing more difficult. Conversely, rock faces can get extremely hot when the sun shines directly on them, even for the belayer.

Please also observe closure times and climbing restrictions. These apply in particular during bird nesting season. Use existing paths for access and avoid damaging plants as much as possible.

Equipment

You need a good climbing rope. Make sure the rope is long enough for the route and the end of the rope is knotted to prevent it from slipping through the safety device while lowering.

Unlike in the climbing gym, you will also need express sets and other equipment if necessary. Take enough expresses for the route according to the topo and, if in doubt, pack one or two extra as spares. Depending on the climbing park and route, abseiling equipment and/or equipment for changing direction is also required. You may also need mobile Friends. The first time you climb outdoors, however, it’s better to choose a route where these aren’t necessary.

When climbing outdoors, both parties need to wear a helmet as the belayer can be hit by stones. Snacks and water are also essential, as is a first aid kit.

Just like in the climbing gym, you’ll need a safety device, climbing shoes, a climbing harness and a chalk bag.

Partner

Arrange a date for your first climb outdoors with someone you trust. Ideally, you’ve already been to the climbing gym a few times together and are a well-coordinated team. It’s even better if you have an experienced person to accompany you. There are also courses where you can learn to climb outdoors.

As in the gym, you always start with a partner check, where you make sure that the safety device is set up correctly, among other things. When climbing outdoors, you should also check that the material is divided up correctly. For example: Does the person climbing have enough express sets on their harness?

Be sure to discuss the commands – which ones will you use? This is even more important outdoors than in the gym, because there isn’t always visual contact and the wind can make understanding each other very difficult.

Safety

For outdoor climbing, careful planning, the right equipment and the necessary knowledge are important. Outdoors, you have to judge more factors yourself than in the gym. The following measures will further increase your safety.

• Make sure you don’t endanger or hinder other rope teams, especially by climbing below them.

• Don’t kick loose rocks and warn others if they do fall.

• Select the belay station so that the belayer has a stable footing and is protected from falling rocks as far as possible. Also watch out for trip hazards, edges and the path of the rope.

• Discuss the retreat plan beforehand: What should you do if the route turns out to be too difficult?

• Check your material before and after each trip to the climbing park and remove any heavy dirt. This ensures that it remains intact, increasing its safety.

• The level of difficulty is not the same as the level of safety: a route classified as easy is not automatically a safe route. In addition to the difficulty, the distances between the anchor points, the rock quality and the fall path also play an important role. Make sure you take this into account when planning.

Final note

When climbing outdoors, it’s very important to be environmentally conscious. Use existing trails to access the climbing area. Avoid loud noises while climbing so as not to disturb animals and other climbers. If you need the toilet, be as discreet as possible. And before you leave the area: pack up all your rubbish and leave no trace.