Buying safety devices for climbing: everything you need to know

This article is not intended to be exhaustive and does not replace basic training.

Climbing and safety – the most important terms

• Lead rope: rope that runs from the belayer to the climber.

• Belay rope: end of rope or rope that runs through the safety device to the ground.

• Braking hand: hand holding the belay rope

• Lead hand: hand holding the lead rope

• Device line: imaginary horizontal line at the height of the safety device when it is under load. A basic safety rule when climbing: the braking hand must never be positioned above this line at any time in order to guarantee the full braking effect.

Different systems of safety devices

When climbing, the safety device ensures that if the climber falls, the belayer can control the fall with the help of the device. Safety devices can be divided into four categories: tubers, assisted braking tubers (autotubers), semi-automatic safety devices and HMS carabiners. They differ primarily in terms of how they’re used. For beginners especially, a simple safety device is recommended. Below you will find an overview of the different safety devices’ properties.

Tuber

Blocking function: No, in other words: if handled incorrectly, the rope can slip through unbraked in the event of a fall.

Use: Mainly for belaying or as a descender in Alpine climbing

Pro: The rope can be let out and pulled in quickly and easily because there is hardly any friction in the device. It’s also comparatively inexpensive and lightweight.

Con: The braking hand must always be positioned below the device line (at least 90 degrees to the lead rope) in order to act as a brake. Depending on the rope diameter, the belayer may require a large amount of holding force in the event of a fall.

More info: Lightweight and versatile – they can also be used as descenders, for example. However, they are banned in some climbing gyms due to their low margin for error.

Possible products: Petzl Reverso, Blackdiamond ATC Guide or ATC Alpine, Wildcountry pro guide lite, DMM Pivot

Assisted braking tuber (autotuber)

Blocking function: Compared to tubers, assisted braking tubers have a mechanism to block the rope in the event of a fall. Nevertheless, the brake rope must always be held firmly and must never cross the device line.

Use: Climbing gym, climbing park, multi-pitch routes

Pros: Gentle on ropes and comparatively easy to operate

Cons: The braking hand must be positioned below the safety device (device line) for it to block. Unlike the tuber, however, an assisted braking tuber starts braking from an angle of 10 degrees between the lead rope and the brake rope. Important: the carabiner must fit the device.

Possible products: Camp Click Up, Mammut smart, Edelrid Gigajul or Megajul

Semi-automatic safety devices

Blocking function: Yes. It is what’s known as a carabiner-independent system. This means that the carabiner has nothing to do with slowing or blocking the rope. It simply connects the safety device to the climbing harness.

Use: Climbing gym, climbing park

Pro: They are the most forgiving of inattentiveness by the belayer because they block automatically – nevertheless, always remain attentive when climbing. Semi-automatic safety devices also require very little manual power, because the mechanism automatically blocks – the belay rope still has to be held firmly at all times.

Con: Not all devices can be operated by left-handed people. In addition, the fast rope release when lead climbing must be practised.

More info: The devices are engraved with instructions on how to thread the rope. If this is done correctly, the safety device will automatically block in the event of a fall. This is why a semi-automatic safety device is particularly suitable for beginners.

Possible products: Petzl Grigri+, Grigri, Edelrid Pinch

HMS carabiner

Blocking function: No. The Munter hitch is fed through an HMS carabiner, creating the necessary braking force.

Use: Alpine climbing, multi-pitch routes

Pro: Little material, carabiner is versatile

Con: HMS carabiners for belaying are banned in some climbing gyms due to their low margin for error.

Fully automatic safety devices (Toppas) for climbing

Blocking function: No, they slow the fall.

Area of application: Permanently installed in gyms

Pro: Climbing without a partner is possible, very safe system

Con: Because you climb alone, no partner check is possible. Therefore, it’s essential to check whether the carabiner is correctly clipped and locked.

Assisted braking tubers (autotubers) and semi-automatic safety devices or devices with an emergency blocking system are recommended for climbing in gyms and climbing parks. They offer the highest level of safety and are the most forgiving of user errors. Regardless of the safety device, it’s important to practice using it well, preferably on a course or under the guidance of an experienced climber. With all systems, the most common cause of accident is human error, not equipment. So, before belaying with a device, you need to know it so well that you know how it works even in stressful situations.

Common belaying errors

Only use safety devices that you know and are familiar with. This may mean that you belay using a different device to the one your partner uses to belay you.

For tubers and assisted braking tubers, the carabiner must match the safety device. The best ones are those that do not twist, meaning that they have a snapper at the bottom that prevents cross-loading of the carabiner.

The belayer must not stand in the fall line of the climber under any circumstances. Otherwise, the climber may fall on the belayer.

Weight differences between the belayer and the climber – everything you need to know

Regardless of the safety device used, weight – or rather the weight difference between the climber and the belayer – plays an important role. A difference in weight can seriously impair the safety of both people: if the belayer is lighter, they may be pulled upward in the event of a fall, and if the belayer is much heavier, they may hardly absorb the fall, causing the climber to fall hard into the rope, which can be very painful.

The following guidelines can help you make an assessment: when lead climbing, the climber should not weigh more than 1.3 to 1.5 times the belayer. For experienced climbers, a slightly larger weight difference is acceptable.

The following tips will help if there is a big weight difference between you and your climbing partner:

• In the climbing gym, you can use a little trick to increase the friction: first, clip the belay rope into the first quickdraw of the adjacent route and then into the first quickdraw of the actual route – this positions the rope at a right angle or in an L shape. This redirection allows lighter people to belay heavier climbers. Con: the neighbouring route is blocked.

• Brake assists do exactly what their name suggests: they assist with braking. Well-known systems include the Ohm and Ohmega by Edelrid. These are attached to the first quickdraw. In the event of a fall, they additionally slow the rope, ensuring that the belayer does not absorb the full impact.

• What is often overlooked is that when a heavier person belays a much lighter person, it can be uncomfortable for the climber to be caught too hard in the event of a fall. This makes dynamic belaying all the more important, as it reduces the impact force.

Partner check before climbing

Regardless of the safety device used, the partner check is essential for safe climbing. Many things become routine over time, but important safety aspects can still be forgotten – perhaps you are engrossed in an interesting conversation, distracted by the beautiful landscape or thinking about something else. Always carry out the partner check, even if you are already experienced – it’s better to check too much than too little. And: check each other using both your eyes and hands. For example, take the tie-in knot in your hand and check it carefully.

How the partner check works:

• Tying in: knot, tie-in point, pull test

• Harness: fits snugly, fasteners looped back

• Carabiner: locked, suitable for rope and safety device

• Safety device: block test (check the mechanism with a fast, targeted pull on the rope)

• Rope: knot at the end of the belay rope

• Weight difference: define measures

• Top rope system check: deflection, correct rope end

Rope thickness and safety device

Each safety device only works reliably with certain rope thicknesses. These are usually engraved on the device or otherwise listed in the product description. For top rope routes in climbing gyms, ropes are used that are suitable for commercially available safety devices. If you buy a rope for lead climbing or for outdoor climbing yourself, be sure to check the information on your safety device.

Dynamic belaying when climbing

In the dynamic belaying technique, the belayer slows down and cushions the climber’s fall to prevent abrupt braking. This prevents injuries in the event of a fall. If the belayer is lighter than the falling person, this usually happens automatically because the person on the ground is pulled against the wall. A lunge position allows extra rope to be fed towards the falling person, slowing down the fall dynamically.

If the belayer is the same weight or heavier than the climber, this lunge step must be taken intentionally to prevent hard braking of the fall. This reduces the impact force on the climber and the anchor points.